The hedgerow larder

There is a particular pleasure in capturing the sharp sweetness of a summer hedgerow and sealing it into a bottle. Cordials and shrubs are the two finest ways to do it. A cordial is a sweet, concentrated syrup — usually fruit, sugar, and an acid such as citric acid or lemon juice — that you dilute with water or something sparkling. A shrub is an older, sharper idea: fruit, sugar, and vinegar, left to mingle until the result is bright, complex, and almost impossibly refreshing. Both keep well in a cool, dark pantry, and both turn a handful of foraged berries into months of good drinking.

Picking with care

Elderflower arrives first, from late May to early June. Look for creamy-white, flat-topped heads that smell faintly of muscat and honey. Pick on a dry, sunny morning when the pollen is rich — that is where much of the flavour lives. Blackberries follow from August into September; choose berries that are deep black and come away from the stem with a gentle tug. Rosehips are ready after the first frosts, when they are firm, bright red, and slightly softened. Always forage away from busy roads, and never pick from sprays you cannot identify. Leave plenty behind for birds and for next year's crop. A basket is better than a plastic bag, which crushes the fruit and traps heat.

Elderflower cordial

This is the classic, and it is worth making in quantity. You will need 20 to 25 elderflower heads, 1.5kg of granulated sugar, 1.5 litres of water, 2 unwaxed lemons, and 50g of citric acid. Bring the water to the boil, pour it over the sugar in a large bowl, and stir until dissolved. Let it cool to just warm, then add the elderflower heads, the zest and sliced lemons, and the citric acid. Cover and leave for 24 to 48 hours, stirring once or twice. Strain through muslin and bottle in sterilised bottles. It keeps for six months in a cool pantry, longer in the fridge. Dilute one part cordial to five parts water, sparkling water, or gin. Later in the year, elderberries make a dark, rich shrub instead — but that is another bottle.

Blackberry shrub

A cold-process shrub gives the freshest, most vivid flavour. For every 500g of blackberries, use 500g of sugar and 500ml of cider vinegar or white wine vinegar. Crush the berries lightly with the sugar in a clean jar or bowl, cover, and leave at room temperature for 24 hours. Stir occasionally until the sugar has drawn out the juice and mostly dissolved. Add the vinegar, stir well, then strain through muslin. Bottle and seal. This shrub keeps for a year or more in a cool pantry. Use it in cocktails, topped with tonic or soda, or drizzled over vanilla ice cream. A good starting ratio for a long drink is one part shrub to four or five parts fizzy water.

Rosehip cordial

Rosehips are high in vitamin C and have a tangy, almost floral sweetness. They need cooking, unlike elderflower. Use 500g of hips, 1.5 litres of water, 400g of sugar, and the juice of one lemon. Roughly chop or pulse the hips in a food processor, then simmer them in the water for 20 minutes. Strain through muslin overnight — do not squeeze too hard if you want a clear cordial, though a little pressure is fine for everyday use. Return the liquid to the pan with the sugar and lemon juice, heat gently until the sugar dissolves, then bottle in sterilised bottles. It keeps for three to four months in a cool pantry. Dilute with hot water for a winter warmer, or cold water and ice for a summer drink.

Keeping and serving

The keeping quality of both cordials and shrubs depends on clean bottles and a cool, dark place. Wash bottles in hot soapy water, rinse well, and dry them in a low oven (around 120°C) for ten minutes, or use a hot dishwasher cycle. Fill while the bottles are still warm, seal immediately, and label with the date. Cordials generally last six months; shrubs, thanks to the vinegar, will keep for a year or more. Check for mould, fizzing, or an off smell before using. Serve elderflower cordial with soda and mint; blackberry shrub with gin and tonic; rosehip cordial with hot water and a slice of lemon. A cool pantry shelf becomes a hedgerow in miniature — sharp, sweet, and ready whenever you are.